Off to An Clochán: Ireland Part 4

Ardfert Friary

We loaded up the car once again, said goodbye to Limerick, and headed toward our next Airbnb in the small village of An Clochán. It's impossible to drive through the Irish countryside without spotting the ruins (na Fothracha, ruins in Irish) of abbeys, friaries, cathedrals, and castles scattered across the landscape. Because of that, many of our favorite moments were unplanned discoveries made along the way. Ardfert was one of those delightful stops—a place we hadn't planned to visit but were so glad we did.

Ardfert Friary

Ardfert is the birthplace of Saint Brendan (born around 484 AD), and we were now in the region where, according to tradition, he set sail in search of the Promised Land. There is a fascinating mix of history and mythology surrounding this remarkable man, and I would encourage you to look him up—there is much to learn about this legendary voyager who is the Saint of the United States Navy!

For now, I'll share a brief summary of what I discovered. The story tells that Brendan sailed from Brandon Bay in a currach—a small boat constructed of leather stretched over an oak frame with wickerwork—accompanied by 17 monks. It is difficult to imagine such a vessel reaching Iceland, Greenland, and even the Americas, yet those are the destinations attributed to his voyages. Whether fact or legend, many believe that Christopher Columbus read accounts of Brendan's travels before embarking on his own journeys across the Atlantic.

Whatever the truth may be, I found the ruins at Ardfert captivating. The site is rich with history, and I couldn't resist taking far more photographs than I probably needed.

An Clochán, Dingle, and Brandan Point 

Angelica had found a wonderfully modern home for our next few days in Ireland. Nestled in a small village and surrounded by lush greenery, it felt private and peaceful, with plenty of space for walking and enjoying the countryside. After several days on the road, it was the perfect place to slow down for a bit.

It was also where we learned that a European washer-dryer combination operates on its own timetable. One load seemed to take the better part of a day! Fortunately, I discovered a folding drying rack tucked away in the upstairs and it quickly became one of the most useful amenities in the house.

We picked this location because it was a good jumping-off point for driving the Ring of Kerry. Before tackling that all-day adventure, though, we decided to make a run over to Dingle.

If you've seen videos about driving in Ireland, you've probably heard of Conor Pass. To get from An Clochán to Dingle the quick way, we had to cross it. The road is about 19 miles long, but it's the couple of miles at the top that get all the attention—and for good reason!

The road narrows as it climbs the mountain, and there's barely enough room for one car on the road. Add in blind corners, steep drop-offs, and the occasional tour bus, and you have a recipe for elevated heart rates.

Our first trip over Conor Pass was definitely an adventure. By the second crossing, we knew what to expect. By the fourth or fifth trip, it had become almost routine—though I never completely relaxed when another vehicle appeared around a corner. Still, the views from the top were incredible and made every nerve-racking mile worth it.

The mountain road to charming Dingle

The next day, we were ready for a quieter pace and a little less time in the car. Mike and I decided to give the young couple a break from the old folks and headed off on our own adventure up to Brandon Point.

The drive itself was worth the trip, winding through spectacular scenery with views around every bend. Eventually, we arrived at a tiny harbor where we found an equally tiny pub tucked away near the water.

One of the things we loved most about Ireland was how willing people were to strike up a conversation. Time and again, we learned things from locals that we never would have found in a guidebook. This little pub was no exception.

For Mike, it became his favorite pub of the entire trip. With a cozy fireplace burning peat (or turf, as it's often called in Ireland), friendly locals, and a view of the harbor, it felt like the kind of place that travelers dream of finding but rarely do.

That evening, we walked into the small village of An Clochán for a wonderful dinner. Over good food and a relaxed evening with just a little Guinness, we talked about the next day's adventure—the famous Ring of Kerry. With full stomachs and plans in place, we headed back to our cozy Airbnb, excited for what lay ahead.

Stay tuned for the next chapter of our Irish adventure!

On the Way to Limerick: Ireland Part 3

The Cliffs of Moher

Although we had been close to the Cliffs of Moher the previous day, we decided to save our visit for the morning we were heading to Limerick. The cliffs are every bit as spectacular as their reputation suggests. Standing high above the Atlantic Ocean, with waves crashing far below, it is easy to understand why they are one of Ireland's most visited natural attractions.

That said, the experience was a bit different from what I had imagined. The crowds were substantial, with large tour buses arriving throughout the day and hundreds of visitors making their way along the viewing paths. While the scenery itself was breathtaking, the popularity of the site took away a little of the feeling of discovery.

I couldn't help but wonder how much of that popularity is due to its appearance in Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince. Whether visitors come because of the films or simply to see one of Ireland's most iconic landscapes, the cliffs remain an unforgettable sight and a place well worth visiting.

The Treasure of Quin Abbey

Our destination for the day was Limerick, and as we neared our stop for the night, we caught a glimpse of an impressive ruin rising from the countryside. Curiosity got the better of us, and we pulled over to explore Quin Abbey.

Built in the 1300s on the site of the ruins of an earlier Anglo-Norman castle, the abbey feels like a hidden treasure. We entered directly from the roadside, sharing the grounds with only a handful of other travelers. There were no tour buses, no ticket booths, and no crowds—just the remarkable remains of centuries past waiting to be explored.

What makes Quin Abbey especially moving is that it remains a burial ground for the local community. Human remains here span more than eight centuries. Some of the earliest graves lie beneath large stone slabs that once formed the abbey floor. As we wandered through the nave and cloisters, we stepped carefully among these weathered markers, mindful of the generations who had been laid to rest there.

The quiet atmosphere, the absence of crowds, and the layers of history made Quin Abbey one of those unexpected discoveries that often become the most memorable parts of a journey.

And wherever we were, no matter how old were the stones, plant life made a home.

Limerick

Our original itinerary didn't include Limerick as an overnight stop, but the lure of experiencing a few traditional Irish pubs convinced us to spend a night there. We booked rooms at the Old Quarter Townhouse, located in the historic heart of the city.

Had I done a little more reading beforehand, I wouldn't have imagined Limerick as the quaint Irish village of my daydreams. In reality, Limerick is Ireland's third-largest city, with a lively atmosphere and plenty to explore.

The Old Quarter Townhouse sits above a pub and restaurant, but we happened to arrive on a holiday when both were closed. Fortunately, the location still worked well for us. A parking garage was conveniently located next door, there were plenty of other pubs and restaurants within walking distance, and we had easy access to the motorway for our departure the next morning.

One unexpected highlight for Mike was finding an Aran wool sweater on sale. After that, he looked so much the part that locals occasionally mistook him for one of their own and would start conversations in Irish (Gaelic). The sweater quickly became both a favorite souvenir and a running joke for the rest of the trip.

After the shopping and breakfast, we set off for our next destination—An Clochán by way of the Dingle Peninsula.

Cassidy, thanks for sharing the driving with Mike!

Off to Galway: Ireland Part 2

After our jet-lag recovery in Dublin, we took the train to Galway, where we picked up a rental car for our adventure through southern Ireland. Before setting off, we had a few hours to enjoy the city. A friendly Garda (Irish police officer) at the train station suggested a nearby pub, so we rolled our suitcases a few blocks down the street and found ourselves at O'Connell's Pub.

From the moment we arrived, we knew we'd stumbled onto something special. The pub's winding laneways, cozy nooks, and charming storefronts felt almost magical. It was easy to imagine Harry Potter appearing around a corner or ducking into one of the hidden passageways.

Since Mike and Cassidy had graciously agreed to be the drivers for our trip, Angelica and I settled in to enjoy the experience. We ordered lunch, raised a pint, and spent the afternoon soaking up the warm atmosphere and friendly Irish hospitality. It was the perfect introduction to Galway—and a wonderful start to our journey through Ireland.

With our two brave—but understandably nervous—drivers adjusting to driving on the left side of the road, we set off for our Airbnb just a few miles outside the town of Galway. Nestled in the countryside, Robin's Nest became our home base for the next three nights as we explored the beautiful sights and hidden gems of County Galway. After a day of adventure, it was the perfect place to return to—cozy, welcoming, and surrounded by the peaceful charm of rural Ireland.

Our first night at Robin's Nest, Angelica made us a tasty spaghetti dinner. 

Kylemore Abbey and Gardens

Our first morning at Robin's Nest began with a drive through the beautiful Connemara countryside to Kylemore Abbey, one of the most photographed landmarks in western Ireland. As we rounded a bend in the road and caught our first glimpse of the abbey sitting beside the lake, it was easy to see why. Framed by the Twelve Bens mountains and reflected in the still water, it looked like something straight out of a fairy tale.

As we explored the estate, we learned that the stunning neo-Gothic castle was originally built in the late 1800s as a family home. Its history took several unexpected turns over the years, including a period when financial troubles led to its sale. In 1920, Benedictine nuns fleeing Belgium during World War I found refuge here and transformed the abbey into both a convent and a boarding school for girls.

Walking through the beautifully restored rooms gave us a glimpse into the lives of the families who once lived there and the nuns who later made it their home. It was fascinating to see how one building could hold so many stories. Between the history, the architecture, and the breathtaking setting, Kylemore Abbey was one of those places that felt every bit as magical in person as it does in photographs. 

Included are pictures of the Neo-Gothic Chapel and gardens as well as the interior of the Castle.

Kylemore Abbey

Elegant Estate

Along the hour-long drive back to our Airbnb, Angelica spotted a small roadside attraction that she simply couldn't pass up. For just 10 euros, she got the chance to hold a fluffy lamb and feed it a bottle of milk. Judging by her smile, it was money well spent.

Of course, no day in Ireland would be complete without a stop at a local pub. This one turned out to be the liveliest pub we encountered during our entire three weeks in Ireland.

The place was packed with young men celebrating a long-awaited soccer cup victory—their first championship win. The excitement was contagious, and the cheers were so loud they practically shook the walls.

We were guided to the dining area, where two musicians were playing traditional Irish music on a fiddle and accordion. Their performance was wonderful, though it often competed with the roar of celebration coming from the bar next door.

If there's one thing we learned that evening, it's that an Irish pub is anything but quiet when there's something worth celebrating!

The following day we headed out to see the oldest dated megalithic monument in Ireland. The tomb sits in the Burren, a unique landscape of glacier-sculpted limestone that covers about 200 square miles.

The structure dates back nearly 6,000 years and consists of a 5-ton capstone resting on upright stones. Archaeologists discovered the remains of at least 33 people beneath the monument.

Despite the bare rock, frequent wind, and cool weather, the Burren is home to 27 species of wild orchids. The orchid I photographed was the first one of the season, or so I was told.

It's amazing to see something so delicate growing in a place that seems, at first glance, so harsh and unforgiving.

I asked AI to combine 2 of my photos from that day

The ancient history I had hoped to experience in Ireland certainly did not disappoint. As we drove from the Burren back to Robin's Nest, we passed several castle ruins scattered across the countryside.

One that caught our attention was Kinvara-Dungory West, sitting quietly on a hillside. And by "quietly," I mean it wasn't overrun with tourists.

What we did find were two charming 13-year-old Irish lads selling homemade cookies. They were eager to tell us about their sleepover the night before, when they stayed up baking their treats. Their enthusiasm was every bit as memorable as the castle itself.

Sometimes it's the unexpected encounters, not the historic landmarks, that become the highlights of the day.