Five Days on the Rogue River: White Water, Wine, and One Wreck

Launch Day: Five rafts and two kayaks were ready to launch for our five-day adventure on the mighty Rogue River. All but two of us had made this trip many times before, but no matter how many river miles you have under your belt, the Rogue always seems to have a few surprises waiting.

Our launch on September 6, 2026

The water is so calm in the beginning, yet this stretch of the river is known for its white water. Don't worry, we will soon find some rapids. 

Trip Photos: There are far too many stories from five days on the Rogue to tell them all, so this time I’m going to let the pictures do most of the talking.

Amazing Rocks

Wonderful Vegetation, Notice the Madrone's Red Bark as it Peels

Avoid this One Small Rock, You Could Get Stuck!

Sheer Beauty!

Of Course the Evenings of Food and Talk

Every day brought another chance to encounter the wildlife of the river. Most of our sightings were water creatures and birds, but on our luckiest days we spotted deer—and even one bear.

And now to the wreck. Even the most seasoned rowers can get into trouble on a whitewater river like the Rogue. In this case, however, the raft that became wedged between two rocks was being rowed by someone making the trip for the first time. With the river’s strong current, it only takes a few seconds for things to go wrong—and suddenly you can find yourself in a situation like this.

Two Strong, Intelligent Men—Stuck!

At this spot, the current was far too fast for the other rafts to pull over and help, so everyone moved downstream and found places to wait below the rapid. Some of us stayed with our rafts, tied off to rocks or holding in eddies, while three men scrambled back upstream over some pretty treacherous rocks to figure out how to free the stranded raft.

Their first attempt to get a rope from the bank to the rocky island failed. It was simply too far. Then Mike came up with a different idea: his salmon fishing rod. After about ten tries, he finally managed to cast the line onto the rocks. That small success made it possible to send heavier ropes and pulleys across the river to the stranded men.

Somewhere between two and three hours later, the raft finally popped free from the crevice. The two men jumped into the water and were soon reunited with their boat. Miraculously, no one was hurt and nothing was lost. Everything on the raft had been so well secured that it all stayed put.

Later we learned that the low water level had caused similar problems before our trip. Another raft had become stuck in the very same place just the week before—and, more recently, yet another group ran into trouble there.

And on we went: The rest of the trip was relatively uneventful—especially compared to the “big raft jam.” Even some of the rapids considered the most challenging were rowed through like pros.

On the last day of the trip, I kept watching for a special tree. For nearly 30 years of trips down the Rogue, we have looked for this little tree growing all alone on a large rock, its roots reaching down over the boulder in search of whatever nourishment it can find.

We call it the Haiku Tree. The name comes from a long-running family joke after someone once mistakenly said “haiku” instead of “bonsai.” The name stuck.

It is always our final landmark, the one that tells us the takeout is only minutes away. Somehow it seemed fitting that this tree should have the last word in the story of our September 2026 Rogue River adventure.

Our Haiku Tree

Ireland Part 6: Our last days there

After finishing our drive along the Wild Atlantic Way, we settled into Kinsale for two nights. This colorful harbor town is a favorite with travelers, known for its good food, lively waterfront, and wonderful places to walk. After spending so many days in the car, we were more than ready for a no-travel day, and Kinsale was just the place to slow down.

Our Airbnb was conveniently located next to a parking area and right in the middle of shops and pubs. Within just a few blocks, we could walk along the waterfront, enjoy the busier parts of town, or wander down quiet paths leading away from it all. It was an easy and relaxing place to explore on foot.

A Day in Kinsale

Master of the Hatchback

One thing I haven’t mentioned about our travels is the daily challenge of packing four people, multiple suitcases, backpacks, and assorted “essentials” into one small hatchback. It was a bit like working a giant jigsaw puzzle—except the pieces seemed to grow every day.

Fortunately, Cassidy quickly proved he had a special talent for making everything fit. And once you demonstrate a skill like that on a road trip, congratulations—you’ve got yourself a job! From then on, Cassidy became our official Master of the Hatchback. Thanks to him, loading up each day went quite smoothly…at least for the other three travelers, who mostly stood back and watched.

On to Our Last Stay in the Irish Countryside

As we headed toward our “castle” Airbnb, we made a stop at the Rock of Cashel—and what a stop it was. This was one of the largest and most impressive ruins of our entire trip.

The site had been important since the early 1100s, partly because its high position made it an ideal place to watch for approaching invaders. In 1101, King Muirchertach donated the Rock of Cashel to the Irish Catholic Church. It was certainly a generous gift to the Church, but it was also a pretty clever political move.

Most of the beautiful stone buildings still standing today date from the 12th and 13th centuries. Sadly, like so many historic places we visited in Ireland, the Rock of Cashel suffered greatly when English troops attacked and sacked the site in 1647. Even in ruins, though, it remains an extraordinary place to wander through and imagine all that happened there.

The Winner of the Best Airbnb!

Before we arrived in Ireland, we had looked and looked for an affordable castle stay. Unfortunately, the price was just too much for the four of us—or even for Angelica and Cassidy, with Mike and me staying somewhere nearby.

But Mike found the next best thing: an Airbnb built around a folly tower. As it turned out, it became our very favorite home away from home on the entire trip.

And what is a folly tower, you might ask? In the 18th and 19th centuries, these decorative towers were sometimes built on large estates simply as a show of wealth. They really had no practical purpose, but they certainly added a bit of drama to the landscape!

The owners of our Airbnb lived on the opposite side of the tower, so when Angelica asked if we could climb to the top, our host kindly opened it up for us. We battled a few spider webs and climbed the steep, winding stairs all the way up. A little creepy, a little challenging—and so much fun! The view from the top made it all worthwhile.

Angelica and I were perfectly happy to enjoy a day of rest in this beautiful place, but the two men simply couldn’t resist a climbing challenge. High on a hill near our “castle house” stood a large cross. From where we were, it was hard to judge just how big the cross was—or how difficult the climb might be. That didn’t seem to matter to Mike and Cassidy. They were ready for the challenge!

Sadly, it was time to begin our journey home to the USA. We packed up our little rental car one last time—by now we had the luggage-loading routine down to a science! After dropping off the car in Kilkenny, we found our way to the train station and boarded our final train ride in Ireland. Next stop: Dublin, where we would spend the last bit of our Irish adventure.

Our Last Days in Dublin

You would think Dublin would feel especially exciting after so many days wandering through the Irish countryside, but by this point, frankly, we were all getting a little travel-weary. Still, I felt just guilty enough about being in Dublin and not seeing Trinity College that we rallied ourselves for one more outing.

From our downtown apartment, we walked across O’Connell Bridge and made our way to this famous center of learning. Trinity College, Ireland’s oldest and most prestigious university, is filled with beautiful 18th-century architecture.

And after so much traveling, walking, and trying to decide how to spend our last days in Ireland, there was nothing better than settling down with a gin and tonic. Along the way, I made two very important discoveries: Ireland has an excellent gin that, sadly, I can’t find in Oregon—and dried juniper berries add just the right bit of bling to a drink.

Rather than squeezing in another museum or more sightseeing, Mike came up with a suggestion for something we certainly can’t do in Blue River, Oregon—go to a live theater! So that is exactly how we spent our last afternoon in Dublin.

We attended a one-person play at the Abbey Theatre, the National Theatre of Ireland. As it happened, it was the only performance that fit into our rapidly shrinking schedule, which made the decision wonderfully easy.

Do You Come From Gomorrah was performed entirely by actor Ryan Donaldson, who delivered the story with remarkable intensity and emotion. The play follows a young boy from a dysfunctional family who ends up in an institution for wayward boys in Northern Ireland. As the program describes it, it is a place “where violence, control and desire meet.”

I’ll leave the details to your imagination, but I will say this: by the end of the performance, tears were flowing throughout the audience—including ours. It was a powerful and unexpected way to spend one of our final afternoons in Ireland.

I must say, the play also gave us a deeper understanding of some of the lingering bitterness we sensed toward the English, rooted in Ireland’s long and often painful history under British rule.

For our final evening, we returned to what Ireland does so well—lively pubs, a few games, good food, and, of course, a pint or two. It was the perfect way to end our adventure.

Our memories of the warm and welcoming people, the beautiful countryside, and the wonderful Irish gift of gab will stay with us for many years to come.

Ireland Part 5: On to Kinsale

We were excited to continue our journey through the Irish countryside. Our plan for the day was to drive the Ring of Kerry along the Wild Atlantic Way. Although we spent many hours in the car, the spectacular views, more castle ruins, and beautiful sandy beaches made the drive well worth it.

One fascinating stop along the way was Cahergall Stone Fort. Many of these forts were built between A.D. 500 and 900, possibly as defensive structures and lookout points. Fortunately, this one remains remarkably intact and has been carefully restored by Ireland’s Office of Public Works.

At the center of the circular stone fort is a small hut that may once have had a roof, providing a warm place for cooking and preparing food. Stone steps built into the interior walls lead from the center all the way to the top. Of course, the some members of our group had to climb up and take in the view!

On our way to see Cahergall Stone Fort, a man approached Angelica and me and placed a lamb in her arms. We were delighted—until, to our surprise, he began asking us for money. We had none with us, and as you can see in the photo, the men were already far ahead. We certainly had not expected this! The fellow quickly took back his lamb and marched off to his van, looking rather disgruntled.

After spending many hours in the car, we were happy to stretch our legs and walk the short distance from our Airbnb to the only restaurant in the small village of An Clochán. Since it was our last night there, we enjoyed a leisurely meal and a few drinks while talking about the next leg of our journey—Kinsale.

On our way we passed through Killarney at lunchtime. Who can resist having lunch is such a famous town. Since we arrive a bit before cafes were open, we had some time to walk through some shops there. 

You can't drive many miles before seeing another wonderful ruin. This beauty,  Timoleague Abbey dates back to 1300 A.D. It was full of passages to walk through and contemplate what events happened within these walls. The tower was inserted in the fifteenth-century, an example of a Franciscan bell tower. Once again I found myself walking over the graves (dolmen) of from many centuries.

And in a few more minutes we were in Kinsale!

Off to An Clochán: Ireland Part 4

Ardfert Friary

We loaded up the car once again, said goodbye to Limerick, and headed toward our next Airbnb in the small village of An Clochán. It's impossible to drive through the Irish countryside without spotting the ruins (na Fothracha, ruins in Irish) of abbeys, friaries, cathedrals, and castles scattered across the landscape. Because of that, many of our favorite moments were unplanned discoveries made along the way. Ardfert was one of those delightful stops—a place we hadn't planned to visit but were so glad we did.

Ardfert Friary

Ardfert is the birthplace of Saint Brendan (born around 484 AD), and we were now in the region where, according to tradition, he set sail in search of the Promised Land. There is a fascinating mix of history and mythology surrounding this remarkable man, and I would encourage you to look him up—there is much to learn about this legendary voyager who is the Saint of the United States Navy!

For now, I'll share a brief summary of what I discovered. The story tells that Brendan sailed from Brandon Bay in a currach—a small boat constructed of leather stretched over an oak frame with wickerwork—accompanied by 17 monks. It is difficult to imagine such a vessel reaching Iceland, Greenland, and even the Americas, yet those are the destinations attributed to his voyages. Whether fact or legend, many believe that Christopher Columbus read accounts of Brendan's travels before embarking on his own journeys across the Atlantic.

Whatever the truth may be, I found the ruins at Ardfert captivating. The site is rich with history, and I couldn't resist taking far more photographs than I probably needed.

An Clochán, Dingle, and Brandan Point 

Angelica had found a wonderfully modern home for our next few days in Ireland. Nestled in a small village and surrounded by lush greenery, it felt private and peaceful, with plenty of space for walking and enjoying the countryside. After several days on the road, it was the perfect place to slow down for a bit.

It was also where we learned that a European washer-dryer combination operates on its own timetable. One load seemed to take the better part of a day! Fortunately, I discovered a folding drying rack tucked away in the upstairs and it quickly became one of the most useful amenities in the house.

We picked this location because it was a good jumping-off point for driving the Ring of Kerry. Before tackling that all-day adventure, though, we decided to make a run over to Dingle.

If you've seen videos about driving in Ireland, you've probably heard of Conor Pass. To get from An Clochán to Dingle the quick way, we had to cross it. The road is about 19 miles long, but it's the couple of miles at the top that get all the attention—and for good reason!

The road narrows as it climbs the mountain, and there's barely enough room for one car on the road. Add in blind corners, steep drop-offs, and the occasional tour bus, and you have a recipe for elevated heart rates.

Our first trip over Conor Pass was definitely an adventure. By the second crossing, we knew what to expect. By the fourth or fifth trip, it had become almost routine—though I never completely relaxed when another vehicle appeared around a corner. Still, the views from the top were incredible and made every nerve-racking mile worth it.

The mountain road to charming Dingle

The next day, we were ready for a quieter pace and a little less time in the car. Mike and I decided to give the young couple a break from the old folks and headed off on our own adventure up to Brandon Point.

The drive itself was worth the trip, winding through spectacular scenery with views around every bend. Eventually, we arrived at a tiny harbor where we found an equally tiny pub tucked away near the water.

One of the things we loved most about Ireland was how willing people were to strike up a conversation. Time and again, we learned things from locals that we never would have found in a guidebook. This little pub was no exception.

For Mike, it became his favorite pub of the entire trip. With a cozy fireplace burning peat (or turf, as it's often called in Ireland), friendly locals, and a view of the harbor, it felt like the kind of place that travelers dream of finding but rarely do.

That evening, we walked into the small village of An Clochán for a wonderful dinner. Over good food and a relaxed evening with just a little Guinness, we talked about the next day's adventure—the famous Ring of Kerry. With full stomachs and plans in place, we headed back to our cozy Airbnb, excited for what lay ahead.

Stay tuned for the next chapter of our Irish adventure!

On the Way to Limerick: Ireland Part 3

The Cliffs of Moher

Although we had been close to the Cliffs of Moher the previous day, we decided to save our visit for the morning we were heading to Limerick. The cliffs are every bit as spectacular as their reputation suggests. Standing high above the Atlantic Ocean, with waves crashing far below, it is easy to understand why they are one of Ireland's most visited natural attractions.

That said, the experience was a bit different from what I had imagined. The crowds were substantial, with large tour buses arriving throughout the day and hundreds of visitors making their way along the viewing paths. While the scenery itself was breathtaking, the popularity of the site took away a little of the feeling of discovery.

I couldn't help but wonder how much of that popularity is due to its appearance in Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince. Whether visitors come because of the films or simply to see one of Ireland's most iconic landscapes, the cliffs remain an unforgettable sight and a place well worth visiting.

The Treasure of Quin Abbey

Our destination for the day was Limerick, and as we neared our stop for the night, we caught a glimpse of an impressive ruin rising from the countryside. Curiosity got the better of us, and we pulled over to explore Quin Abbey.

Built in the 1300s on the site of the ruins of an earlier Anglo-Norman castle, the abbey feels like a hidden treasure. We entered directly from the roadside, sharing the grounds with only a handful of other travelers. There were no tour buses, no ticket booths, and no crowds—just the remarkable remains of centuries past waiting to be explored.

What makes Quin Abbey especially moving is that it remains a burial ground for the local community. Human remains here span more than eight centuries. Some of the earliest graves lie beneath large stone slabs that once formed the abbey floor. As we wandered through the nave and cloisters, we stepped carefully among these weathered markers, mindful of the generations who had been laid to rest there.

The quiet atmosphere, the absence of crowds, and the layers of history made Quin Abbey one of those unexpected discoveries that often become the most memorable parts of a journey.

And wherever we were, no matter how old were the stones, plant life made a home.

Limerick

Our original itinerary didn't include Limerick as an overnight stop, but the lure of experiencing a few traditional Irish pubs convinced us to spend a night there. We booked rooms at the Old Quarter Townhouse, located in the historic heart of the city.

Had I done a little more reading beforehand, I wouldn't have imagined Limerick as the quaint Irish village of my daydreams. In reality, Limerick is Ireland's third-largest city, with a lively atmosphere and plenty to explore.

The Old Quarter Townhouse sits above a pub and restaurant, but we happened to arrive on a holiday when both were closed. Fortunately, the location still worked well for us. A parking garage was conveniently located next door, there were plenty of other pubs and restaurants within walking distance, and we had easy access to the motorway for our departure the next morning.

One unexpected highlight for Mike was finding an Aran wool sweater on sale. After that, he looked so much the part that locals occasionally mistook him for one of their own and would start conversations in Irish (Gaelic). The sweater quickly became both a favorite souvenir and a running joke for the rest of the trip.

After the shopping and breakfast, we set off for our next destination—An Clochán by way of the Dingle Peninsula.

Cassidy, thanks for sharing the driving with Mike!

Off to Galway: Ireland Part 2

After our jet-lag recovery in Dublin, we took the train to Galway, where we picked up a rental car for our adventure through southern Ireland. Before setting off, we had a few hours to enjoy the city. A friendly Garda (Irish police officer) at the train station suggested a nearby pub, so we rolled our suitcases a few blocks down the street and found ourselves at O'Connell's Pub.

From the moment we arrived, we knew we'd stumbled onto something special. The pub's winding laneways, cozy nooks, and charming storefronts felt almost magical. It was easy to imagine Harry Potter appearing around a corner or ducking into one of the hidden passageways.

Since Mike and Cassidy had graciously agreed to be the drivers for our trip, Angelica and I settled in to enjoy the experience. We ordered lunch, raised a pint, and spent the afternoon soaking up the warm atmosphere and friendly Irish hospitality. It was the perfect introduction to Galway—and a wonderful start to our journey through Ireland.

With our two brave—but understandably nervous—drivers adjusting to driving on the left side of the road, we set off for our Airbnb just a few miles outside the town of Galway. Nestled in the countryside, Robin's Nest became our home base for the next three nights as we explored the beautiful sights and hidden gems of County Galway. After a day of adventure, it was the perfect place to return to—cozy, welcoming, and surrounded by the peaceful charm of rural Ireland.

Our first night at Robin's Nest, Angelica made us a tasty spaghetti dinner. 

Kylemore Abbey and Gardens

Our first morning at Robin's Nest began with a drive through the beautiful Connemara countryside to Kylemore Abbey, one of the most photographed landmarks in western Ireland. As we rounded a bend in the road and caught our first glimpse of the abbey sitting beside the lake, it was easy to see why. Framed by the Twelve Bens mountains and reflected in the still water, it looked like something straight out of a fairy tale.

As we explored the estate, we learned that the stunning neo-Gothic castle was originally built in the late 1800s as a family home. Its history took several unexpected turns over the years, including a period when financial troubles led to its sale. In 1920, Benedictine nuns fleeing Belgium during World War I found refuge here and transformed the abbey into both a convent and a boarding school for girls.

Walking through the beautifully restored rooms gave us a glimpse into the lives of the families who once lived there and the nuns who later made it their home. It was fascinating to see how one building could hold so many stories. Between the history, the architecture, and the breathtaking setting, Kylemore Abbey was one of those places that felt every bit as magical in person as it does in photographs. 

Included are pictures of the Neo-Gothic Chapel and gardens as well as the interior of the Castle.

Kylemore Abbey

Elegant Estate

Along the hour-long drive back to our Airbnb, Angelica spotted a small roadside attraction that she simply couldn't pass up. For just 10 euros, she got the chance to hold a fluffy lamb and feed it a bottle of milk. Judging by her smile, it was money well spent.

Of course, no day in Ireland would be complete without a stop at a local pub. This one turned out to be the liveliest pub we encountered during our entire three weeks in Ireland.

The place was packed with young men celebrating a long-awaited soccer cup victory—their first championship win. The excitement was contagious, and the cheers were so loud they practically shook the walls.

We were guided to the dining area, where two musicians were playing traditional Irish music on a fiddle and accordion. Their performance was wonderful, though it often competed with the roar of celebration coming from the bar next door.

If there's one thing we learned that evening, it's that an Irish pub is anything but quiet when there's something worth celebrating!

The following day we headed out to see the oldest dated megalithic monument in Ireland. The tomb sits in the Burren, a unique landscape of glacier-sculpted limestone that covers about 200 square miles.

The structure dates back nearly 6,000 years and consists of a 5-ton capstone resting on upright stones. Archaeologists discovered the remains of at least 33 people beneath the monument.

Despite the bare rock, frequent wind, and cool weather, the Burren is home to 27 species of wild orchids. The orchid I photographed was the first one of the season, or so I was told.

It's amazing to see something so delicate growing in a place that seems, at first glance, so harsh and unforgiving.

I asked AI to combine 2 of my photos from that day

The ancient history I had hoped to experience in Ireland certainly did not disappoint. As we drove from the Burren back to Robin's Nest, we passed several castle ruins scattered across the countryside.

One that caught our attention was Kinvara-Dungory West, sitting quietly on a hillside. And by "quietly," I mean it wasn't overrun with tourists.

What we did find were two charming 13-year-old Irish lads selling homemade cookies. They were eager to tell us about their sleepover the night before, when they stayed up baking their treats. Their enthusiasm was every bit as memorable as the castle itself.

Sometimes it's the unexpected encounters, not the historic landmarks, that become the highlights of the day.

We Took a Tick to Ireland: Ireland Part 1

Four Ticketed Humans and One Stowaway

Here we are — four happy travelers heading to Ireland. (I’m behind the camera.) During the  trip, I noticed a tiny dark speck on Mike’s neck. As I reached to brush it away, it disappeared down the back of his shirt. I assumed it was just a bit of dirt or debris and thought nothing more about it.

The next morning, though, Mike discovered a tick happily attached to his knee. We carefully removed and killed it, and fortunately there was no later infection.

But on to our travels. As you can probably imagine, we arrived in Dublin in a bit of a stupor after the long flight to Europe. As tempting as it was to collapse into bed at our Airbnb, we decided instead to store our luggage and walk across the River Liffey to the National Museum of Ireland.

 

The museum was filled with fascinating exhibits, but the most jaw-dropping by far were the Bog Bodies — human remains dating back 2,000 to 4,000 years. They were discovered by people cutting peat (turf) for fuel. Remarkably, the bodies were preserved for centuries by the acidic conditions of Ireland’s wetlands.

The museum's antiquities range from the Mesolithic Age (8000-4000BC) to Post Midieval. Here are two items from the Viking Age.

As our attention span had drained, we had a brief discussion and came to a unanimous decision to head back to the airbnb.

 Here are a few pictures of Dublin taken as we walked back to our airbnb.

So what is Ireland famous for? Pubs!!

The Ferryman Pub, built in the 1780s, had a cozy and quiet basement where we enjoyed our first — but definitely not our last — Guinness on draft. At first, the atmosphere was calm and relaxed. But once the Dubliners got off work, the pub quickly filled with locals enjoying the other thing Ireland is famous for: the “gift of gab.” Soon the room was buzzing with laughter, conversation, and the warm energy that makes an Irish pub unforgettable.

The next day we got on the train to Galway. Stay tuned.