Off to An Clochán: Ireland Part 4

Ardfert Friary

We loaded up the car once again, said goodbye to Limerick, and headed toward our next Airbnb in the small village of An Clochán. It's impossible to drive through the Irish countryside without spotting the ruins (na Fothracha, ruins in Irish) of abbeys, friaries, cathedrals, and castles scattered across the landscape. Because of that, many of our favorite moments were unplanned discoveries made along the way. Ardfert was one of those delightful stops—a place we hadn't planned to visit but were so glad we did.

Ardfert Friary

Ardfert is the birthplace of Saint Brendan (born around 484 AD), and we were now in the region where, according to tradition, he set sail in search of the Promised Land. There is a fascinating mix of history and mythology surrounding this remarkable man, and I would encourage you to look him up—there is much to learn about this legendary voyager who is the Saint of the United States Navy!

For now, I'll share a brief summary of what I discovered. The story tells that Brendan sailed from Brandon Bay in a currach—a small boat constructed of leather stretched over an oak frame with wickerwork—accompanied by 17 monks. It is difficult to imagine such a vessel reaching Iceland, Greenland, and even the Americas, yet those are the destinations attributed to his voyages. Whether fact or legend, many believe that Christopher Columbus read accounts of Brendan's travels before embarking on his own journeys across the Atlantic.

Whatever the truth may be, I found the ruins at Ardfert captivating. The site is rich with history, and I couldn't resist taking far more photographs than I probably needed.

An Clochán, Dingle, and Brandan Point 

Angelica had found a wonderfully modern home for our next few days in Ireland. Nestled in a small village and surrounded by lush greenery, it felt private and peaceful, with plenty of space for walking and enjoying the countryside. After several days on the road, it was the perfect place to slow down for a bit.

It was also where we learned that a European washer-dryer combination operates on its own timetable. One load seemed to take the better part of a day! Fortunately, I discovered a folding drying rack tucked away in the upstairs and it quickly became one of the most useful amenities in the house.

We picked this location because it was a good jumping-off point for driving the Ring of Kerry. Before tackling that all-day adventure, though, we decided to make a run over to Dingle.

If you've seen videos about driving in Ireland, you've probably heard of Conor Pass. To get from An Clochán to Dingle the quick way, we had to cross it. The road is about 19 miles long, but it's the couple of miles at the top that get all the attention—and for good reason!

The road narrows as it climbs the mountain, and there's barely enough room for one car on the road. Add in blind corners, steep drop-offs, and the occasional tour bus, and you have a recipe for elevated heart rates.

Our first trip over Conor Pass was definitely an adventure. By the second crossing, we knew what to expect. By the fourth or fifth trip, it had become almost routine—though I never completely relaxed when another vehicle appeared around a corner. Still, the views from the top were incredible and made every nerve-racking mile worth it.

The mountain road to charming Dingle

The next day, we were ready for a quieter pace and a little less time in the car. Mike and I decided to give the young couple a break from the old folks and headed off on our own adventure up to Brandon Point.

The drive itself was worth the trip, winding through spectacular scenery with views around every bend. Eventually, we arrived at a tiny harbor where we found an equally tiny pub tucked away near the water.

One of the things we loved most about Ireland was how willing people were to strike up a conversation. Time and again, we learned things from locals that we never would have found in a guidebook. This little pub was no exception.

For Mike, it became his favorite pub of the entire trip. With a cozy fireplace burning peat (or turf, as it's often called in Ireland), friendly locals, and a view of the harbor, it felt like the kind of place that travelers dream of finding but rarely do.

That evening, we walked into the small village of An Clochán for a wonderful dinner. Over good food and a relaxed evening with just a little Guinness, we talked about the next day's adventure—the famous Ring of Kerry. With full stomachs and plans in place, we headed back to our cozy Airbnb, excited for what lay ahead.

Stay tuned for the next chapter of our Irish adventure!